you finally found the muscle car of your dreams

That's a pretty nice ride you've bought; you finally found the muscle car of your dreams. She's not in perfect condition though, and is going to need some old car parts. The question you have now is how do I find the old car parts I am going to need. Should I buy new or used? I have found that the internet is by far the best place to source out these parts these days. The internet has become a valuable tool in locating these sometimes hard to find parts.

Going with second hand parts from an identical vehicle is usually very cost effective. If you are on a restricted budget, you will find yourself calling around from dealer to dealer, and out walking around all the local junk yards finding the deals. Classifieds are another option, either the old car parts section in the newspaper, or even through local vintage car clubs. Make sure you take care to properly inspect the parts before taking them home

You can usually find new maintenance parts, like brake pads, clutches, etc, but if you are looking for a headlight enclosure, or original hub cap cover then used old car parts is the only way to go When buying online, check the previous transaction history of the vendor. This is always available from any of the major sites. You are better off avoiding any vendors who have a low feedback score. Generally 30 or higher is very safe.

If you aren't having much luck finding car parts, used parts were not available and new parts were no longer manufactured, then you may have to consider fabrication. This is going to cost you a bit more, but you will get the exact old car part you need.

Use all the resources you have wisely, just try Googling "old car parts" and you will find a wealth of information at your finger tips. Use these resources to save you time and money so you can spend more time in the garage working on your passion!

I have been restoring Classic Cars for over 10 years. One of the best resources I use fo

Disneyland opened its doors

What's better than cruising with your very best girl on a Saturday night? Cruising in a Ford Thunderbird classic car, that's what. T-Birds first appeared in 1955, (the same year Disneyland opened its doors), and they have been going strong ever since. Those first Thunderbirds were small, classically designed sports cars that oozed style and speed at the same time.

Thunderbird classic cars underwent an evolution after they first appeared in 1955. First designed as two-seaters, a four-door appeared in the late 1960s, and in 1958, the ultra-classic convertible first appeared, leading the car to its' classic status almost overnight.

The Ford T-Bird came in a variety of colors, from pristine white (remember "American Graffiti?") to classic and eye-popping candy-apple red. They seem to represent the 1950s, an age of innocence and youth that is long gone but certainly not forgotten.

How can you collect Thunderbird classic cars? Well, there are several places to start:

o Your local classified pages. A long shot, to be sure, but you may find the car of your dreams right in your own back yard.
o Local car auctions. Again, these classic beauties are hard to find, but at the right car auction, one might turn up.
o Vintage car auctions. Your odds get better at these auctions that pop up around the country and specialize is antique and vintage cars like Thunderbirds, and the cars are often in mint condition at these auctions, too.
o Online. You can check auction sites like eBay, sales sights like Craigslist, or Internet sales sites to find the Thunderbird of your dreams. Often, these cars are ready to be restored to their former glory, so you might be able to find some bargains here.
o Car clubs. Is there a local Ford or T-Bird club in your area? Join it. You may find one of the members is selling their car, and you'll learn more about how to restore and enjoy your T-Bird once you find one to buy.

What makes these cars so classic? Well, it could be the 1950s retro styling, with fins, porthole windows, and their sporty look, or it could be that many people remember them from when they were young. They were the "cool" cars then, and some things never change, Thunderbird classic cars are still cool today, so cool that Ford has brought back an updated version for the 21st century.

Did you know Thunderbird classic cars were named for a mythological Native American bird, and they can be categorized into eras of style and development? Here they are:

o 1955-1957. This generation is known as the "Classic Birds," "Little Birds," or "Early Birds," according to who you ask.
o 1958-1960. These are the "Square Birds," and include the introduction of the convertible.
o 1961-1963. Here come the "Bullet Birds," styled after a sleek, speedy bullet.
o 1964-1966. These are the "Flair Birds," designed with more flair and less speed..
o 1967-1969. Known as the "Glamour Birds," these models may be easier to find that the earliest models, and became more luxurious. The convertible disappeared with this model, but four doors appeared.

Check engine oil and coolant CAR TIPS

Summer is right around the corner, and soon you'll be dusting off that vintage iron in your garage in anticipation of warm days and cool nights spent cruising the boulevards of your hometown and beyond. Even high gasoline prices won't spoil the fun. But the winter of rest can really put a damper on the fun if you don't put in a little up-front time giving your "baby" a seasonal check-up. Here are 5 important tips that can make your summer cruising a whole lot more fun:

Fluids - Check engine oil and coolant, transmission (manual and/or auto), differential(s), brake, power steering, clutch (if hydraulic) and battery electrolyte. Change or refill as necessary. Keep records. If any of the above is drastically low, you may have a major leak. Find the cause and repair before you hit the road. Is it time for an oil change?
Tires - Check air pressure, add if needed. Look at sidewalls for signs of dry-rot (dry and cracking rubber). If you see rot, it might be a good idea to replace the tire(s). Does the tread come up to at least Lincoln's head on a penny (2/32")? If not, better replace the tire(s).
Brakes - Remove, at minimum, one wheel front and rear and examine the brakes. Do the shoes/pads have adequate lining? If not, better replace them now. Are the drums or rotors scored or smooth? If so, look into getting them resurfaced or replaced. Pry up an edge of the rubber cap on a wheel cylinder and look for brake fluid. If wet, then it's time to replace that wheel cylinder, now check them all. If a disk caliper is leaking, replace or rebuild it and check the other(s). Notice any signs of excess grease or axle lubricant? If so, now would be an excellent time to replace those seals. Chances are the brake shoes are ruined if the seals were leaking. You must replace them along with the seals. Does the park brake work? This is as important as the service brakes and should be working well. Adjust brakes as needed.
Chassis - Don't forget to grease all suspension and driveline fittings. Check wheel bearings, king pins, tie rods, rubber bushings and/or ball joints for excessive play or wear. Any of these items can contribute to an unsafe vehicle, so replace or repair them as necessary.
Miscellaneous - Finally, perform a visual inspection of the exhaust system, looking for worn or disconnected hangers, rusted-out pipes and/or mufflers or other obvious defects. Inspect all lights on the vehicle, especially brake and turn signal lights if so equipped. A burned-out license plate lamp is a sure stop by a cop, so make sure all is well there. Put updated copies of registration and proof of insurance in the glovebox. Are the windshield wipers in good working order? Replace both if even slightly dry or torn.
Now, go and have a safe and fun summer with your classic car

When buying classic cars, there is always a danger

When buying classic cars, there is always a danger that you will get less than what you pay for. Vintage vehicles may appreciate in value, but always remember that these cars are ten to twenty years old--and that means there is a great possibility that there are some damages and scratches that will lessen its value.

As a general reminder, do not buy a car hastily. Take the time to inspect everything, from the exterior to the upholstery, and even the tires. Here are a few quick inspection tips when buying classic cars.

1. If you don't know a thing about cars, contact an expert.

If you think you don't have enough knowledge about classic cars, it is best to contact a mechanic for an inspection before you purchase. If you inspect the car without the proper knowledge, it is almost similar to not inspecting it at all. And even if you do have a car geek side, it might still be best to contact a mechanic to assist you. They might even give you a tip as to how much the vehicle is really worth.

2. Make sure you see all the paperwork and documents.

Always look for all the paperwork, from repair records to Vehicle Identification Numbers. Be suspicious of sellers who could not show all the proper documents, especially if the deal is too sweet. You would not want to risk buying a stolen car.

3. Inspect every inch of the exterior.

Check everywhere for rust. If you see one, see to it that it's just surface rust that could be wiped off. Also look for signs of repair, and cross-check with the paperwork. If you see a repair made that's not in the documents, ask the seller about it. Make sure that all the repairs have been made properly.

Inspect the mirrors, hinges, and all of the hard-to-inspect spots, like the space in between doors. And of course, check the body for any scratches or bumps. Don't forget to bring a magnet, as that may help in detecting iron fillings used to makeshift-repairs for dents.

4. Inspect every inch of the interior.

Check out the upholstery. Look for cracks, stains, and loose threads. Inspect the dashboard, the door, and headliner for any damage or watermarks. If the classic car is a convertible, check out the convertible top, especially if it's made of textile. Make sure that there are no tears. Look at all the glove compartments. Dust is okay, but hard to remove sticky stains are not.

5. Check under the hood and all other mechanisms.

Look for leaks, loose wirings, and rust. Check for water in the oil and fuel filter. Inspect the belts for tears and possible stress. Do know the history of the particular car, and make sure that the engine is original (unless the owner says that it's modified). Honk the horns, operate the wipers, and check the handbrakes

American classic cars

I love the American classic cars, and it doesn't much matter what the car is as long as it was built in the USA, I do tend to like muscle cars a bit better then just regular American classics, the classic cars had such a stylish and classy look to them, and they didn't all look the same, the cars today are more plain and drab.

There is nothing like the feeling of driving a true American muscle car, from the moment you fire the engine up, your blood begins to pump, you feel like a gorilla on steroids, like nothing can beat you, or even match you in a power contest, because you car and you are invincible, of course you know that it's not true, but at least you have had the opportunity to have the feeling.

It's the same feeling that you had as a kid when you got your first muscle car, and drove it to the local drive-in for a burger, you had your lady by you, and one mean car that you were driving, it doesn't matter if it was a Mustang, 'Cuda, Camaro, Corvette, or any other muscle car, as long as it was your car.

The second you pull in the the drive-in all the eyeballs are on your new ride, and the guys in the other cars look at you with anxiety wondering what your new ride has under the hood, wondering if it's all factory, or if you have worked it over, and they won't know that until you race them.

All the ladies have gathered around to see who it is in the new muscle car, they are anxious to go for a ride, and your glad to oblige, now that you have had an opportunity to show your new hot rod off, it's off to hang out with the boys on the main drag, a place where you can prove your machine to all of them.

The time has come to have you first chance to race your new car, and you pull up to the light, give the driver next to you the sign, and engines begin to rev, as the clutch is held to the floor, as you anticipate the light turning green, you see it in your mind, you feel the moment approach as you wait, your car wants to obliterate the car next to you.

Your machine is breathing fire, and the light turns green, you let the clutch go, and your car immediately turns side ways, as the tires begin to churn smoke off of the pavement, and the smell of rubber comes up through the air vents in the car, as you hit second gear you car fishtails in the other direction, as you wrestle the wheel to bring it under control.

cars on eBay, CarPoint, Carsales

Due diligence was in order. At this point I had a leaning to Australian or American and had pretty much qualified out the rest. The great thing about the web is you can do lots of research without leaving home. I checked out a lot of cars on eBay, CarPoint, Carsales, Trading Post online and Drive to get a feel for prices, what you got for your money and availability. Now we all know that how something may be represented online can be very different when you inspect it. I learnt this first hand when I was living in the US and bought a "restored" 67 Mustang Fastback from Oregon. The sellers definition of restored was very different to mine but because I never had it checked out I only had myself to blame.

By this time I had made a few decisions. The car was going to be "no matching numbers", in other words non original. The intention would be to keep the classic lines but modernize the entire drive train so that it performed, handled and stopped way better than it did when it first left the factory. I wasn't looking for a total basket case, but I wasn't prepared to pay a premium for lots of stuff that would get jettisoned in the build. Ultimately, a usable body with minimal rust and most of the trim parts on the car would work for what I had in mind.

Restoring a car is a little like building a house - the first dollar figure you come up with normally translates as you pick up the keys into double that figure plus twenty percent. How far do you go, where do you set your limits, how long is a piece of string...... I am not going to put a budget to the project until I have a car and understand what I am up for. This normally occurs once the paint is blasted off and you get a real sense for the amount of work involved.

All the cars that would be appealing or were recommended would cost big bucks up front. Old Monaro's, even total basket cases were outrageous money. Valiant Chargers weren't as bad but there were not many around. Any true Aussie muscle car worth restoring is in the stratosphere and I am probably about five years too late. I remember a HK Bathurst Monaro requiring a full restoration sold at auction in the last two years for $55K and everyone thought that was outrageous. Looks like an absolute bargain now. Fords, especially GT or HO optioned cars from the late sixties and early seventies cost more than an average family dwelling and a basket case is in the range of two years salary for most people.

I inquired about a number of cars. A Bolwell in Western Australia caught my attention, I always loved these cars as a kid and you rarely see them today. It was a basket case, no drive train and missing a lot of parts but it could be the one. After lots of questions, numerous phone calls and emails I was told it had previously been registered in Victoria yet it had no VIN or chassis number attached. Potential nightmare - qualify out. A good looking, solid six cylinder HG Monaro came up on eBay with faded paint and 35+ years of wear which was a potential candidate. As the price rose with each bid, its suitability slipped further. I didn't even see its final price but I realised at this point I need to reassess what I am doing.

With the launch of Classic Car Gurus

With the launch of Classic Car Gurus I felt that a great way to showcase the skills and talent of the gurus listed on the site would be to have a project car that under goes a full restoration and is documented on the web site.

Over the years I have had plenty of cars and a lot of them, had I kept them, would be classics today. This leads to the question, what sort of project car should I choose? Classic Car Gurus is an Australian website and I have no interest in doing anything with it in New Zealand or any other countries so perhaps an Australian car should be featured. I've had some nice European cars in the past, the Japanese cars that appeal are reliable and relatively easy to source parts for and of course there is a multitude of choice if you think American.

Rather than charge the hill and make an executive decision I felt I should canvass other people's opinions to see what they feel should be the chosen marque. Everyone I approached had a different perspective which ultimately helped me decide what to do. All of the suggestions were good ones. Interestingly, most lent towards an Australian candidate for all the obvious reasons with badges and names like Bolwell, Monaro, XY, Charger and the like. Few suggested European with the exception of MG, E-Type and Austin Healey featuring as potential candidates. The American suggestions centered on Mustang, Camaro and a few other pony cars. The Datsun 240Z was the common pick amongst the Japanese candidates.

With so many cars to choose from ultimately it came down to a number of questions - what do you want to use it for, how much do want to spend, concourse restoration or resto-mod, how involved do you want it to be, what condition does the donor car need to be in? And the list went on. And on. With so many opinions it didn't take me long to realise that the one opinion that counted was mine, with buy in from the wife. Having explained the vision for the project car the wife saw the big picture, gave me the go ahead and said you choose. There is a god after all.